INSTRUCTIONS:

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Monday, February 4, 2019

Replacing the K40's Digital Panel with an Analog one

Why replace the panel?

It is not uncommon for the K40's digital panel to fail and more and more users are realizing the value of having a pot for control and an analog meter read laser current.

The digital panel

Understanding the k40 digital control panel

Adding an analog meter.

Adding-analog-milliamp-meter-to-k40.html

Converting the Digital Panel to Analog

Recently +Ned Hill had a LPS failure and tube replacement and decided to replace the digital panel and do a C3D upgrade.
We thought posting the conversion would be useful to others in the community

Schematic

I added a conversion diagram to the existing schematics I had for the digital panel.
It is located on the tab "Convrt 2 Analog".
https://www.digikey.com/schemeit/project/k40-powerled-v30-PM4QJBO303GG/



Conversion Instructions:

These conversion instructions are for supplies with all GREEN connectors. I can add the equivalent for other supplies upon request.

This conversion entails replacing the digital panel with an analog equivalent. The new analog panel has a switch, momentary push-button, pot, and digital voltmeter. The harness that goes from the LPS to the digital panel can be reused with the addition of two wires. These instructions refer back to the schematic.

-Build and mount the new analog panel (blue area)
-Remove the connector from the digital panel (orange area)
-Cut off the connector and strip back the wires
-Reconnect the 4x digital panel wires as shown in the schematic to the new panel (blue area)
-You will have to add 2x wires to the harness the G and the 5V

Note: this schematic also shows an installed pot and an associated control voltage DVM

Extracted from the schematic

Pictures From +Ned Hill Conversion

Supply Connections


Purchase Links

Please buy your parts using my affiliate links. It costs you nothing and it helps fund my activities. I defined a kit for this project which contains all the parts and links to amazon.
The entire kit is here and points you to these parts on Amazon.



Contributors

Thanks to +Ned Hill for his contribution to this post.

Donate?

If this post helped you solve a problem, saved you time or was otherwise useful consider donating using the link in the upper right of the site.
Donations fund some of the expense of tools and materials for my shop and lab so I can bring you more content.

----

 Thanks, and please comment,
Don

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12 comments:

  1. FrysApril 18, 2019 at 12:29 PM

    Do have a list for all of the parts.
    Brilliant write up.
    My power supply blew which I've replaced. I think it blew display when it happened. Test button still works but I don't want to use it until I can see what power is running through it.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. DonKJrApril 19, 2019 at 4:49 AM

      The purchase links above has the parts list. Click there to go to the parts list.

      Delete
    2. UnknownApril 5, 2020 at 4:02 AM

      Hi Don,

      The link appears broken. Can you reinstate it please? Thank you for sharing your work!

      Kind regards,
      Scott

      Delete
    3. TomJuly 13, 2020 at 4:28 AM

      Hey Don (and others looking for the kit)
      kit.com apparently got moved/bought. it's now kit.co so the link should be: https://kit.co/donkjr/convert-a-digital-k40-panel-to-analog

      cheers!

      Delete
  2. Keeloi79May 4, 2019 at 8:38 AM

    Great guide! Was able to use it to convert my digital controls to analog pot yesterday. I used +Ned Hill's panel and tweaked it a bit to fit my particular button and switch sizes along with the temperature gauge. https://i.imgur.com/0kOygOQ.jpg Edited Template: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ad02I8FAniTNbE5FwZxWdN5d4yBdPQta/view?usp=sharing

    ReplyDelete
  3. Faiza JeeMay 15, 2019 at 11:32 AM

    Thank you so much for the post you do. I like your post and all you share with us is up to date and quite informative, i would like to bookmark the page so i can come here again to read you, as you have done a wonderful job. Zonnepanelen installateur

    ReplyDelete
  4. jmneiheiselJanuary 8, 2020 at 3:12 PM

    Thanks so much for posting this. I ended up making a small PCB that plugged into JST connector that was connected to the digital panel and converting everything that way.
    One thing i will mention is that i got a faulty 10-turn pot from the affiliate link here. And a few months later on a facebook group another member attempted this conversion and also had a faulty pot. I ended up buying another pot from a different supplier and it worked fine.
    Your site has been a terrific resource though, thanks again.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Benscale160March 5, 2020 at 2:13 PM

    Thank you so much for the info. My power supply board has the small white push plugs instead of the green screw terminals. The pins are labeled as followed.

    To the right of the test button is a two pin connector labeled "P" and "G". The magnetic reed switch from the flow sensor is connected to these pins. I would wire up a laser arm panel switch in series with one of these wires.

    Next is another two pin connector labeled "K+" and "K-". There is only one wire going to the "K-" contact I'm guessing this is the laser test fire wore. I'm guessing if this wire is connected to ground, the laser will fire.

    The next connector is a three pin connector is labeled "G", "IN", and "5V". These would goto the analog pot and be wired the same way as you describe.

    Thank you in advance for help. Also the below email is not one I check often. If needed to contact me further please let me know and I can forward another email.

    Ben

    ReplyDelete
  6. barnessMarch 11, 2020 at 6:07 AM

    This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  7. barnessMarch 11, 2020 at 6:09 AM

    Looking forward to doing this upgrade. Thanks so much for your articles. I have a the same layout Power Supply to Benscale160.
    To the right of the test button is a two pin connector labeled "P" and "G". The magnetic reed switch from the flow sensor is connected to these pins. I would wire up a laser arm panel switch in series with one of these wires.

    Next is another two pin connector labeled "K+" and "K-". There is only one wire going to the "K-" contact I'm guessing this is the laser test fire wore. I'm guessing if this wire is connected to ground, the laser will fire.

    The next connector is a three pin connector is labeled "G", "IN", and "5V". These would goto the analog pot and be wired the same way as you describe.

    To the right of the above I have 24V, G, 5V, L which runs to the controller board and uses the 24V for the LED lights as well.

    ReplyDelete
  8. WritetechAugust 25, 2021 at 5:00 AM

    This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  9. tazOctober 19, 2024 at 8:07 AM

    Hi, I just bought a used Omtech branded K40. It has the analog mA meter, but push buttons to control power. I just installed the Monport Conversion MB. I'm having a hard time with this as the laser won't fire. I suspect the laser control cable might be pinned wrong but don't have confirmation. Also people say to manually adjust to full power with the pot and then let lightburn control power from there. I don't have a pot, I have the buttons, and in order to plug in the Monport laser control I have to unplug the wire that controls the buttons. Any assistance?

    ReplyDelete

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